Sitting in the drafts folder of this blog are the posts I started writing about the mid phase review and my time off. I never got around to finishing them because on Saturday 25th April, a devastating earthquake hit Nepal.
It was coming up to midday when I started to feel the ground shaking below me. Sat in a meeting about smear testing with around 30 other people it took a few moments to register what was happening. Everyone seemed to realise at the exact same time that it was an earthquake and we left the room. Nepalis don't really do orderly and calm so they ran outside, pushing others out of their way, whilst myself and another UKV put our years of fire escape training into practice.
Standing outside waiting for the quake to stop seemed to take an age. It is very hard to explain that feeling, the ground was moving under my feet and the buildings around me were shaking. Walking was a strange sensation and there was nothing we could do but wait for it to stop. Although the media has reported the length of the earthquake as 30 seconds, it definitely lasted longer than that where we were.
When it finally stopped I tried unsuccessfully to contact the volunteers and we went back to our meeting. A few minutes later and a large aftershock began to shake the room. In a heightened panic, the Nepali people ran from the room. Whilst waiting outside we got news that the earthquake had measured 7.9 and the epicentre was 35km from our community. Still the phone lines were down and people began to panic. The UKV I was with received a text from home asking if she was ok after the earthquake. When I found out it had reached national news I realised that this was no small earthquake and that things were about to change.
It was a tense hour or so before the phone lines started working and I was able to contact the volunteers. Fortunately they were all ok and the Nepali volunteers had all been in touch with their families, who were all safe. Walking the 5km back to our host home, Rahul and I saw very little damage and our own village showed no signs of damage.
That evening news started to trickle in from Kathmandu and we began to hear about the devastation. The power had gone but information came in through relatives in Kathmandu and one of the locals had a radio. People were walking up and down the streets sharing stories and checking on relatives. Already the death toll was at 700 and many historic buildings had collapsed.
As time went by it started to look very stormy and we were given the orders to move volunteers living in mud houses in the hills to safer concrete houses in the small towns, due to the risk of landslides. It seemed to take forever to get them down to our house and I felt like a nervous mum waiting for them to arrive.
That night we left the house 3 times due to large aftershocks. My bed had 4 very high and slim legs so I could feel every tiny shake and I got very little sleep. Every time I drifted off there was a small tremor. Each time an aftershock hit I could hear Nepali people screaming and running outside, if they weren't already sleeping out there.
On Sunday morning there was much excitement as a newspaper arrived from a nearby town. It showed images of some of the devastation in KTM and reported that the death toll was now over 1000. That day was probably one of the longest and saddest days I've ever experienced. Nepali volunteers were getting news from friends and family about damage to homes and loss of people they know. I felt incredibly powerless because there was nothing I could do or say to ease the situation except from to offer a shoulder to cry on. We had had no news about what to do next so I couldn't even inform them if/when they would be going home.
Sunday was a long day followed by a long night. We took the decision to sleep outside as the aftershocks were still continuing. It wasn't a big deal and I slept strangely well. Monday continued in the same way that Sunday did as we all sat powerless, waiting for news. I was getting increasingly frustrated with the lack of communication because at this point I just wanted to get the Nepali volunteers back home to their families. The roads were all closed so we were stuck in Lamjung, with them so far from home and unable to leave. Their sadness became my sadness and I felt somewhat overwhelmed by the whole situation.
On Tuesday we began to get some information. It became clear that we would be leaving the programme and I was relieved to hear this as I wanted to get the Nepalis home as soon as possible. It was now just a waiting game. The volunteers that had been staying in our home were sent back to their host homes to pack and await further information. Things then began to happen very quickly. Wednesday we heard news that we would be moving to Pokhara, where we could fly to KTM if a flight became available. When we arrived at Pokhara on Thursday we finally got word that flights had been booked for us on Saturday afternoon.
Arriving at Kathmandu airport on Friday meant saying goodbye to our Nepali volunteers. Having had to do this once before in Tajikistan I knew it would be a sad occasion. Fortunately I got to keep my counterpart for one more day, but saying goodbye to one half of my team was very emotional, and the bus was almost silent travelling to our hotel in Thamel.
That evening we went for dinner in what had previously been a bustling and lively part of KTM. Everything had changed. Due to damage of buildings, many roads were closed and we could walk freely with no traffic. Most shops and restaurants were closed and there were people sleeping on the streets. We passed huge camps where people were sleeping and saw a number of damaged or collapsed buildings. The atmosphere was very sombre.
That night was the complete night to the one before it. Thursday night had been a perfect evening as all of the volunteers spent the night dancing, singing and just being their crazy selves. We'd spent the entire night together as a team and there couldn't have been a better evening. This one however was just the UK volunteers as we all thought about the Nepali volunteers and our impending departure. We got an early night and the only disruption was a tremor around 11pm, reminding us of the intensity of the eathquake.
On Saturday afternoon we left KTM and I finally had to say goodbye to my counterpart Rahul. It wasn't an easy goodbye and I'll admit that I spent the whole journey to the airport in tears (damn you Rahul!). The circumstances in which we were leaving made the departure a very sad one and I didn't feel ready to come back.
Now that I am home I am a mixture of emotions. The last week has been incredibly surreal and already it is starting to feel like it never happened. Over the days I've learned more and more about the devastating effect the earthquake has had on Nepal. The death toll is currently over 6000 and still continues to rise and new problems are arising due to sanitation problems. There isn't enough food and shelter for those who have lost their homes. Whole communities are shut off and inaccessible. There are still people trapped under buildings. Although aid is coming in, it isn't getting where it needs to be fast enough due to poor roads and transport links. I've seen the emotional effect it has had on the Nepali people and there is a great sadness amongst them. Landmarks they have grown up with knowing have been completely destroyed. The city is visibly different and friends and family members have been lost.
On a more positive note it has been incredible to see the nation come together to support each other. Relief has come in thick and fast and there is so much being done to support the country. We saw for ourselves the army taking supplies to and fro and many of the Nepali volunteers are now getting involved with the relief effort. I myself will be organising a fundraiser to help raise money, so keep your eyes peeled for news of that.
For now though I will be processing everything that has happened since the earthquake hit. It's been 10 days of highs and lows and the resulting emotions. Though I've had a number of issues with Nepal, I would never have wished for this and I was incredibly sad to leave. The relationship I had with my counterpart was going from strength to strength and I'm devastated to have had to leave that. I would had to have left regardless, but the suddenness of it is what's made the situation harder to deal with. I knew I would be leaving, but there were 4 weeks left and now the volunteers have had to abandon all of their hard work and we all have had our time their cut short. Obviously this pales in the context of the situation, but I think myself and the UK volunteers can all agree that we are heartbroken to have had to leave.
What I have come to realise is the love and support of the people back at home. Obviously I've had a very worried mum and dad, as well as lots of messages of concern and support from friends and family. It's sometimes been difficult for me to respond to this because I've been so wrapped up in making sure the Nepali volunteers get home, but I am extremely grateful for everything. I was perfectly safe the entire time, but having that network of support waiting for me at home made me feel very loved and I'm glad to have had that to return to. I'll no doubt be leaning on that as I begin to adjust to life in the UK.
I'll be updating this blog again soon with some of the backdated posts, but that's it for now.
Stay strong Nepal.
Lizzie x
Tuesday, 5 May 2015
Thursday, 9 April 2015
Independent Women (Part II)
In a strange way I've been looking forward to writing this one ever since I got out to Nepal. Although I might have called it Independent Women, this post is completely opposite to part 1 as I'll be covering a topic that has such a negative effect on women's lives. The topic is something so taboo that they don't speak about it in some parts of the country. It's something children don't get educated about. It's the reason a lot of girls don't go to school. It's the reason a number of women are raped.
I'm talking periods, people.
(Guys: this one's going to be all about menstruation, so if you're feeling squeamish about that, get a grip of yourselves and keep reading. This is interesting stuff).
**Disclaimer: the following doesn't apply to every inch and corner of Nepal, but a lot of it is common and does affect a huge number of women.**
Let's get to it. In Nepal they have what are known as chhaupadi traditions. These are a strict set of rules to follow when women are menstruating. Practiced in the far western areas of Nepal, the chhaupadi tradition prevents women from normal family activities because they are 'impure'. On her very first period, a girl must spend 10-11 days in a shed, and 4-7 days from then on. After childbirth, the mother must also spend 11 days in confinement. Often these sheds can be far from the home and more than one woman will have to stay there. The women have no protection and often they are raped (even though they're impure, go figure).
During menstruation women are forbidden to touch men or to enter the courtyard of their own homes. They are barred from consuming milk, yogurt, butter, meat, and must survive on a diet of dry foods, salt, and rice. They cannot use warm blankets, and are allowed only a small rug made of burlap. They are also restricted from going to school or performing their daily functions like taking a bath, forced to stay in the conditions of the shed. This is all because they are considered to be impure.
I'm talking periods, people.
(Guys: this one's going to be all about menstruation, so if you're feeling squeamish about that, get a grip of yourselves and keep reading. This is interesting stuff).
**Disclaimer: the following doesn't apply to every inch and corner of Nepal, but a lot of it is common and does affect a huge number of women.**
Let's get to it. In Nepal they have what are known as chhaupadi traditions. These are a strict set of rules to follow when women are menstruating. Practiced in the far western areas of Nepal, the chhaupadi tradition prevents women from normal family activities because they are 'impure'. On her very first period, a girl must spend 10-11 days in a shed, and 4-7 days from then on. After childbirth, the mother must also spend 11 days in confinement. Often these sheds can be far from the home and more than one woman will have to stay there. The women have no protection and often they are raped (even though they're impure, go figure).
During menstruation women are forbidden to touch men or to enter the courtyard of their own homes. They are barred from consuming milk, yogurt, butter, meat, and must survive on a diet of dry foods, salt, and rice. They cannot use warm blankets, and are allowed only a small rug made of burlap. They are also restricted from going to school or performing their daily functions like taking a bath, forced to stay in the conditions of the shed. This is all because they are considered to be impure.
The chhaupadi system comes from the superstition of impurity during the menstruation period. In this superstitious logic, if a menstruating woman touches a tree it will never again bear fruit; if she consumes milk the cow will not give any more milk; if she reads a book about Saraswati, the goddess of education, she will become angry; if she touches a man, he will be ill. (Wiki)
Despite being outlawed by the Supreme Court in 2005, the practice still continues. In the far west of Nepal, 50% of women said they had been forced to live in sheds. In the mid west it was 52% of women.
In addition to this, it seems that education about menstrual and other sexual and reproductive health is completely missing from the curriculum. Some of the Nepali volunteers have told me that although it is there in the textbook, it doesn't spoken about in school. At home there will be no help either, there is no chance of your parents sitting down to talk about these 'impure' topics. This isn't the only issue when it comes to education. Due to poor sanitation facilities, and often a complete lack of girls toilets, girls are often forced to miss school when they are menstruating, having an extremely detrimental effect on their education.
Learning about the above has made me realise the importance of the programme we are currently working on. Based in schools, the volunteers have been/will be delivering classes about these essential topics. They have already been out teaching about puberty and menstrual health to women's groups and they will be extending this to schools too. Some of the volunteers have also organised sanitary pad making workshops, a great session that teaches women who may not have access to sanitary items how to make their own discreet pads.
This is the part where I would like to add lots of statistics about how things are changing, but they've been hard to come by. Because Chhaudapi is such an established tradition it is hard to break. Women accept the practice because it's what their mothers and grandmothers have done, so they are expected to do it too. There are some efforts being made to root this problem out. Twice a week, the state-owned Radio Nepal broadcasts programmes to raise awareness about the chhaupadi system and the reproductive health rights of women. The United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), Ministry of Women, Children and Social Welfare and Mainstreaming Gender Equity Programme (MGEP) screened a 40-minute documentary film in March this year called 'Chhaupadi', to highlight the problem.
This is the part where I would like to add lots of statistics about how things are changing, but they've been hard to come by. Because Chhaudapi is such an established tradition it is hard to break. Women accept the practice because it's what their mothers and grandmothers have done, so they are expected to do it too. There are some efforts being made to root this problem out. Twice a week, the state-owned Radio Nepal broadcasts programmes to raise awareness about the chhaupadi system and the reproductive health rights of women. The United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), Ministry of Women, Children and Social Welfare and Mainstreaming Gender Equity Programme (MGEP) screened a 40-minute documentary film in March this year called 'Chhaupadi', to highlight the problem.
The attitudes to menstruation have directly affected some of my volunteers. Of course there have been no volunteers sleeping out in sheds, but they have had to follow some of the 'milder' rules. The host homes understand that the UK volunteers have different practices and respect that, but at the same time we must respect the rules of the homes we are living in. I have also found that Nepali's use menstruation as reasoning for most health problems. Whenever a volunteer has been sick, the doctor has always asked if they are menstruating. Most Nepali women seem to 'take rest' when they are menstruating, and they seem shocked at our desire to continue living life as normal. I can't image what an employer in the UK would say if you said you needed 4 days off every month from work because of menstruation. Maybe I'll test that out when I get back...
Lizzie x
Want to see some images of chaupadi in practice? Head over to this gallery on The Guardian.
This is also a good link to a first hand account of chaupadi in Nepal.
Monday, 6 April 2015
Whoa, We're Halfway There.
There's not much that's worse than Bon Jovi, so I apologise for that hideous blog title.
I was going to write this post many weeks ago when I was having an absolutely appalling day and a difficult time all round. However, I realised it would be all negative and that those feelings would eventually subside. Of course I was right and am now in a position where I can balance out the negatives with some cheery stuff too. So, here it is, a realistic account of my time in Nepal so far.
At the start I was having a difficult time, there's no other way to say it. I found it really quite hard to adapt to life in Nepal and it was so much different to what I was expecting. With Tajikistan I found it impossible to have expectations as I had no idea about the country. I therefore had no problems with expectations not being met. Nepal, however, is different. I had an image in my mind of how life would be and what the country was like and it hasn't quite matched that. That doesn't mean I didn't like it, it's just not what I expected.
It took quite a few weeks to feel 'comfortable' in Nepal. I can't really put my finger on what it is about the country, but I didn't instantly feel settled there. Although I have been told time and time again that the people are wonderful and hospitable, I didn't instantly feel this. I found a lot of people I met to be quite rude, unhelpful and I didn't always feel welcome. It was also incredibly frustrating getting used to way things work (or don't work) in this country. Each decision takes a very long time, bureaucracy is extreme and there never seems to be a straight answer for anything.
Another thing that got to me was the extreme hypocrisy in Nepal. I've been told that Nepal stands for Never Ending Peace And Love, but I've seen things that completely contradict that. I won't go too much into it because it's a sensitive topic, but there is a caste system in Nepal that discriminates against a vast number of people. This sometimes goes as far as one caste not even accepting water from the lowest caste because they are 'untouchable'. Speaking of untouchable, there are 'pollution' rules that dictate that during menstruation, women must sleep outside, use another water source and not touch men. I don't really see the love there. Fortunately, the majority of the people I've met do not follow these practices, or choose a 'watered down' version and I've not seen too much caste discrimination, although it is there. It absolutely broke my heart during training when I found out one of my volunteers was worried about being discriminated against in the host home because of their caste. And there I was, worried about the toilets.
When I first arrived into the community I did have an overwhelming moment of 'what have I done?'. I think being all alone for the first time in my bare cement room, thousands of miles away from home and with a whole group relying on me, it all hit home. I did almost have a cry but then I was saved by some well timed chiya.
HOWEVER
The people in the community I live in seem much kinder than those in Kathmandu and I lived with a family that are very sweet and caring. What I had previously taken as rudeness is just the Nepali way, as they are quite reserved on the whole. The Nepali volunteers I work with are very helpful and are a great support to the UK volunteers. At times I still get very annoyed with the overly complicated paperwork and methods of doing things, but as ex-local government staff I'm kind of used to it. Maybe it was the change in location or maybe I was just in a different mindset when I first arrived, but things are definitely easier.
Every morning I wake up and go up to the rooftop for my morning chiya (tea). I look out over the lush greenery and out to the Himalayas and wonder what there ever was to be unhappy about. Nepal is a truly beautiful country and I'm so glad to be here (although it has ruined scenery for me forever). I love living in a town that has so little traffic that you can walk freely through the dusty streets. Even more than that I love being able to see goats, chickens and even the stinky bisey (buffaloes) every day. Walking over to the office and having chicks at your feet (the feathered kind) is one of my favourite things. I don't have to listen to the sounds of traffic, sirens, dogs barking or people shouting anymore, just the sounds of crickets, birds and farm animals. Even the sounds of bugs scuttling around at night on my bedroom floor aren't that bad anymore.
There is such a rich and diverse culture that it's sometimes hard to take it in, even for the Nepali volunteers. There are over 100 languages spoken in Nepal and the main religions are Hinduism and Buddhism although there are also Christians, Muslims and other smaller groups. Some of the traditions (though I don't agree with all of them) are hundreds of years old and still going strong today. Sometimes I feel like we're in a bit of a time warp as the communities we're in are completely sustainable without a single influence from the outside world. For example, one of the host homes is completely self sufficient. Whatever they grow, they eat. If they don't grow it, they don't eat it. This is the same for much of rural Nepal and it does make me think about my own lifestyle. I'm not about to go and live in a hippy commune, but I'll definitely be attempting to grow some of my own veggies and making a conscious effort to be more sustainable.
We're almost at the point of our Mid Phase Review (MPR) which means that after that I only have five weeks left in community and then a final week up in Kathmandu. It is at this point of the programme where time will really start to fly. I know that the time between my own MPR and returning home seemed like it was only a week as opposed to six. In this time so much work will be done. The volunteers have got some excellent Community Action Days (CADs) planned including footcare, sanitary pad making, HIV/AIDs awareness workshops, uterine prolapse sessions, beekeeping training and workshops on healthy livestock. In addition to this the schools will finally be open so they can start doing their lessons in sexual and reproductive health. It's been very frustrating for them to have to wait until half way through the programme to start these but at least they can finally get stuck into that and in the meantime they've delivered some great CADs and active citizenship days.
As for me, I'm finding it challenging but also enjoyable to be a Team Leader. I've got to know the volunteers really well and think they're a really good group. They've got great skills between them and have faced up to their challenges really well. I'm looking forward to our MPR for some time out of the community and away from work. It's going to be Nepali New Year so I'm excited to see in the year 2072 with this bunch of crazy kids.
My own experience is somewhat different to theirs because I am not directly involved in a set project. I enjoy seeing the work they do and am happy to support with any help they need, although if that means talking to a Nepali beekeeping expert, I'm kind of at a loss. I've found that I've developed in quite a different way to last time. When I came back from Tajikistan I had a new found confidence and had finally gotten over issues of public speaking and leading teams. Before that, there is no way I'd be in the position I'm currently in. This time around I've grown even more as a person, cheesy as that sounds. Supporting the volunteers on an emotional level has evoked skills that I have never previously used as I'm not usually known for being a particularly good counsellor. That seems to have changed now (I hope so, anyway) and I've found a whole fountain of wisdom that I never knew I had. Maybe that's because I'm getting on a bit...
I've also had plenty of time to think about the future and what "I Want To Do", the big question. I still don't really know but I've recognised the skills that I have and the things that make me happy. Prior to this I would say I was incredibly confused about the future and what I "Would Be", another big question. Now, I'm in a place where I know what I'm good at and I know what I like. I've previously accepted jobs which have been an easy way out as doing what I actually want to do seemed like too much of a challenge. I'm feeling confident enough in myself now to go after what I want, and for me that is a huge victory.
Lizzie x
I was going to write this post many weeks ago when I was having an absolutely appalling day and a difficult time all round. However, I realised it would be all negative and that those feelings would eventually subside. Of course I was right and am now in a position where I can balance out the negatives with some cheery stuff too. So, here it is, a realistic account of my time in Nepal so far.
At the start I was having a difficult time, there's no other way to say it. I found it really quite hard to adapt to life in Nepal and it was so much different to what I was expecting. With Tajikistan I found it impossible to have expectations as I had no idea about the country. I therefore had no problems with expectations not being met. Nepal, however, is different. I had an image in my mind of how life would be and what the country was like and it hasn't quite matched that. That doesn't mean I didn't like it, it's just not what I expected.
It took quite a few weeks to feel 'comfortable' in Nepal. I can't really put my finger on what it is about the country, but I didn't instantly feel settled there. Although I have been told time and time again that the people are wonderful and hospitable, I didn't instantly feel this. I found a lot of people I met to be quite rude, unhelpful and I didn't always feel welcome. It was also incredibly frustrating getting used to way things work (or don't work) in this country. Each decision takes a very long time, bureaucracy is extreme and there never seems to be a straight answer for anything.
Another thing that got to me was the extreme hypocrisy in Nepal. I've been told that Nepal stands for Never Ending Peace And Love, but I've seen things that completely contradict that. I won't go too much into it because it's a sensitive topic, but there is a caste system in Nepal that discriminates against a vast number of people. This sometimes goes as far as one caste not even accepting water from the lowest caste because they are 'untouchable'. Speaking of untouchable, there are 'pollution' rules that dictate that during menstruation, women must sleep outside, use another water source and not touch men. I don't really see the love there. Fortunately, the majority of the people I've met do not follow these practices, or choose a 'watered down' version and I've not seen too much caste discrimination, although it is there. It absolutely broke my heart during training when I found out one of my volunteers was worried about being discriminated against in the host home because of their caste. And there I was, worried about the toilets.
When I first arrived into the community I did have an overwhelming moment of 'what have I done?'. I think being all alone for the first time in my bare cement room, thousands of miles away from home and with a whole group relying on me, it all hit home. I did almost have a cry but then I was saved by some well timed chiya.
HOWEVER
The people in the community I live in seem much kinder than those in Kathmandu and I lived with a family that are very sweet and caring. What I had previously taken as rudeness is just the Nepali way, as they are quite reserved on the whole. The Nepali volunteers I work with are very helpful and are a great support to the UK volunteers. At times I still get very annoyed with the overly complicated paperwork and methods of doing things, but as ex-local government staff I'm kind of used to it. Maybe it was the change in location or maybe I was just in a different mindset when I first arrived, but things are definitely easier.
Every morning I wake up and go up to the rooftop for my morning chiya (tea). I look out over the lush greenery and out to the Himalayas and wonder what there ever was to be unhappy about. Nepal is a truly beautiful country and I'm so glad to be here (although it has ruined scenery for me forever). I love living in a town that has so little traffic that you can walk freely through the dusty streets. Even more than that I love being able to see goats, chickens and even the stinky bisey (buffaloes) every day. Walking over to the office and having chicks at your feet (the feathered kind) is one of my favourite things. I don't have to listen to the sounds of traffic, sirens, dogs barking or people shouting anymore, just the sounds of crickets, birds and farm animals. Even the sounds of bugs scuttling around at night on my bedroom floor aren't that bad anymore.
There is such a rich and diverse culture that it's sometimes hard to take it in, even for the Nepali volunteers. There are over 100 languages spoken in Nepal and the main religions are Hinduism and Buddhism although there are also Christians, Muslims and other smaller groups. Some of the traditions (though I don't agree with all of them) are hundreds of years old and still going strong today. Sometimes I feel like we're in a bit of a time warp as the communities we're in are completely sustainable without a single influence from the outside world. For example, one of the host homes is completely self sufficient. Whatever they grow, they eat. If they don't grow it, they don't eat it. This is the same for much of rural Nepal and it does make me think about my own lifestyle. I'm not about to go and live in a hippy commune, but I'll definitely be attempting to grow some of my own veggies and making a conscious effort to be more sustainable.
We're almost at the point of our Mid Phase Review (MPR) which means that after that I only have five weeks left in community and then a final week up in Kathmandu. It is at this point of the programme where time will really start to fly. I know that the time between my own MPR and returning home seemed like it was only a week as opposed to six. In this time so much work will be done. The volunteers have got some excellent Community Action Days (CADs) planned including footcare, sanitary pad making, HIV/AIDs awareness workshops, uterine prolapse sessions, beekeeping training and workshops on healthy livestock. In addition to this the schools will finally be open so they can start doing their lessons in sexual and reproductive health. It's been very frustrating for them to have to wait until half way through the programme to start these but at least they can finally get stuck into that and in the meantime they've delivered some great CADs and active citizenship days.
As for me, I'm finding it challenging but also enjoyable to be a Team Leader. I've got to know the volunteers really well and think they're a really good group. They've got great skills between them and have faced up to their challenges really well. I'm looking forward to our MPR for some time out of the community and away from work. It's going to be Nepali New Year so I'm excited to see in the year 2072 with this bunch of crazy kids.
My own experience is somewhat different to theirs because I am not directly involved in a set project. I enjoy seeing the work they do and am happy to support with any help they need, although if that means talking to a Nepali beekeeping expert, I'm kind of at a loss. I've found that I've developed in quite a different way to last time. When I came back from Tajikistan I had a new found confidence and had finally gotten over issues of public speaking and leading teams. Before that, there is no way I'd be in the position I'm currently in. This time around I've grown even more as a person, cheesy as that sounds. Supporting the volunteers on an emotional level has evoked skills that I have never previously used as I'm not usually known for being a particularly good counsellor. That seems to have changed now (I hope so, anyway) and I've found a whole fountain of wisdom that I never knew I had. Maybe that's because I'm getting on a bit...
I've also had plenty of time to think about the future and what "I Want To Do", the big question. I still don't really know but I've recognised the skills that I have and the things that make me happy. Prior to this I would say I was incredibly confused about the future and what I "Would Be", another big question. Now, I'm in a place where I know what I'm good at and I know what I like. I've previously accepted jobs which have been an easy way out as doing what I actually want to do seemed like too much of a challenge. I'm feeling confident enough in myself now to go after what I want, and for me that is a huge victory.
Lizzie x
Saturday, 28 March 2015
A Quick Update.
I am very aware that there hasn't been a blog post now for two weeks, but don't worry, I haven't died.
We've been in community now for almost three weeks and the volunteers are well underway with their projects. I've had days with lots to do and days with little to do, but I'll blame that on the amazing efficiency of the volunteers. The group I am working with are really great, and I'm not just saying that in case they're reading this. Everyone has come up with so many good ideas and have overcome the numerous issues we've had to deal with that are out of our control. I'm feeling ever so proud already.
The work we are doing is focussed on two areas: sexual and reproductive health and livelihoods. Most of the work has focussed on the former although many of the volunteers are now looking at agricultural projects too. Unfortunately the schools we are supposed to work in are shut for at least half of the time we have been placed here, so the volunteers have had to look for alternative projects to work on. They've done well though and have found a number of new communities that former volunteers hadn't identified. I'm hoping that after the next two weeks we'll be able to get into the schools.
Last weekend one of the counterpart pairs organised a litter picking day for one of their Community Action Days (CADs) which was really successful and the whole community were really keen to get involved. I was genuinely surprised by this because the local people don't seem to worry too much about litter, it just gets thrown into the street or burnt. Some of the other groups have also been leading sessions about menstruation and puberty to school children who would not usually get these kinds of lessons. In Nepal, girls don't get any education about menstruation despite the fact it is in their textbooks as it is a taboo subject. All of the volunteers in my group will therefore be going into schools to teach girls about these important lessons. (I have suggested they design a leaflet called "It's Not the End of the World: A Guide to Your First Period". Genius, I know).
Although I am not directly involved in the work of the volunteers, I get to see a lot of them in action and I'm excited to see what they're going to come up with next. A lot of them are in planning stage soon but some of the things they'll be doing include:
- painting schools and redecorating toilets with hygiene advice
- homemade footcare remedies (the feet of Nepali women are not a pretty sight)
- sessions in schools about stress, mental health, gender equality, contraception, STIs and hygiene
- pap smear testing camp
- general healthcare camp: checking blood pressure etc
There's plenty more but you get the gist! Each group has to do a minimum of 3 CADs but I know that many of my group plan on doing more. In their pairs they each have to complete one Active Citizenship Day (ACD) too, which involves leading a workshop on a global issue to the rest of the team. We have the first one tomorrow and I'm excited to see it.
When I'm not helping the volunteers with planning, myself and my counterpart Rahul go out to visit the volunteers in their host homes or in their work placements. We also have to deal with a lot of financial paperwork which makes my brain ache and I end up asking a lot of questions like "isn't there an easier way?!". The answer is always no and I've come to realise that in Nepal there is never a straightforward solution or answer. It's something I'm gradually coming to terms with though.
I had to leave community for a few days to go up to Kathmandu and it hit me then that I actually missed being in my community. Despite a few days where I've been feeling totally negative, on the whole I am enjoying it here. My host family are very sweet and although I can only communicate with the little sister (who rather kindly gave me a French manicure tonight, HELLO!), they seem to be very nice and they always give me lots of cups of tea which makes them good people in my book.
I've got one week left in community before I go on a few days leave and immediately after that it's our Mid Phase Review (MPR), with just five weeks in community after that. Although some days it seems like everything moves very slowly, the time is in fact going very quickly and I know from experience that once MPR is done, time moves even quicker. It's going to be nice for the volunteers to take some time out and reflect on their experience so far, but it does make it hit home that half the programme is over already.
This week I'll be doing more host home visits and going to see some of the volunteers carry out their CADs. More on that, plus my time off next time!
Lizzie x
We've been in community now for almost three weeks and the volunteers are well underway with their projects. I've had days with lots to do and days with little to do, but I'll blame that on the amazing efficiency of the volunteers. The group I am working with are really great, and I'm not just saying that in case they're reading this. Everyone has come up with so many good ideas and have overcome the numerous issues we've had to deal with that are out of our control. I'm feeling ever so proud already.
The work we are doing is focussed on two areas: sexual and reproductive health and livelihoods. Most of the work has focussed on the former although many of the volunteers are now looking at agricultural projects too. Unfortunately the schools we are supposed to work in are shut for at least half of the time we have been placed here, so the volunteers have had to look for alternative projects to work on. They've done well though and have found a number of new communities that former volunteers hadn't identified. I'm hoping that after the next two weeks we'll be able to get into the schools.
Last weekend one of the counterpart pairs organised a litter picking day for one of their Community Action Days (CADs) which was really successful and the whole community were really keen to get involved. I was genuinely surprised by this because the local people don't seem to worry too much about litter, it just gets thrown into the street or burnt. Some of the other groups have also been leading sessions about menstruation and puberty to school children who would not usually get these kinds of lessons. In Nepal, girls don't get any education about menstruation despite the fact it is in their textbooks as it is a taboo subject. All of the volunteers in my group will therefore be going into schools to teach girls about these important lessons. (I have suggested they design a leaflet called "It's Not the End of the World: A Guide to Your First Period". Genius, I know).
Although I am not directly involved in the work of the volunteers, I get to see a lot of them in action and I'm excited to see what they're going to come up with next. A lot of them are in planning stage soon but some of the things they'll be doing include:
- painting schools and redecorating toilets with hygiene advice
- homemade footcare remedies (the feet of Nepali women are not a pretty sight)
- sessions in schools about stress, mental health, gender equality, contraception, STIs and hygiene
- pap smear testing camp
- general healthcare camp: checking blood pressure etc
There's plenty more but you get the gist! Each group has to do a minimum of 3 CADs but I know that many of my group plan on doing more. In their pairs they each have to complete one Active Citizenship Day (ACD) too, which involves leading a workshop on a global issue to the rest of the team. We have the first one tomorrow and I'm excited to see it.
When I'm not helping the volunteers with planning, myself and my counterpart Rahul go out to visit the volunteers in their host homes or in their work placements. We also have to deal with a lot of financial paperwork which makes my brain ache and I end up asking a lot of questions like "isn't there an easier way?!". The answer is always no and I've come to realise that in Nepal there is never a straightforward solution or answer. It's something I'm gradually coming to terms with though.
I had to leave community for a few days to go up to Kathmandu and it hit me then that I actually missed being in my community. Despite a few days where I've been feeling totally negative, on the whole I am enjoying it here. My host family are very sweet and although I can only communicate with the little sister (who rather kindly gave me a French manicure tonight, HELLO!), they seem to be very nice and they always give me lots of cups of tea which makes them good people in my book.
I've got one week left in community before I go on a few days leave and immediately after that it's our Mid Phase Review (MPR), with just five weeks in community after that. Although some days it seems like everything moves very slowly, the time is in fact going very quickly and I know from experience that once MPR is done, time moves even quicker. It's going to be nice for the volunteers to take some time out and reflect on their experience so far, but it does make it hit home that half the programme is over already.
This week I'll be doing more host home visits and going to see some of the volunteers carry out their CADs. More on that, plus my time off next time!
Lizzie x
Saturday, 14 March 2015
The First Week
It dawned on me yesterday that I haven't actually written about anything that has happened since the volunteers arrived, so here you have it, an overdue update.
The UKVs arrived on the evening of the 28th and it took them a record breaking 2 hours to collect their bags and get out of the airport, they are now at the top of the leaderboard for bag-collection time, not that there are any winners in this competition. Anyway.
The UKVs and ICVs (In Country Volunteers) then had three days of In Country Orientation (ICO- prepare yourself for many acronyms) which included language lessons, health and safety briefings, learning about the strategy of VSO Nepal, etc etc. I unfortunately had to miss one session as I finally got hit with food poisoning, although I did have a glorious 3 and a half weeks without getting it. Sadly we lost one of the UKVs during this time due to personal reasons, but it was all dealt with very well by VSO.
After the ICO we headed off to Besi Sehar which is the administrative capital of Lamjung, the district we are working in. With a lot of persuasion we managed to get a great deal on the best hotel in Besi Sehar, which was one final bit of luxury for the volunteers but has now ruined us for the next 10 weeks. In Besi Sehar the volunteers had 4 days of InCO (In Community Orientation) which was led by yours truly and my counterpart, Rahul. The InCO mainly consisted of learning how to facilitate, setting goals and preparing for life in the community. I really enjoyed leading the InCO and it has given me plenty of experience in training and facilitating sessions, which I 100% would not have been able to do this time last year. Thanks ICS.
There were lots of mixed emotions over these few training days as the reality of the programme kicked in for the volunteers. Having never seen the community before there were lots of questions about the toilets and electricity, as well as some doubts as to what we are going to do for the next few weeks. I've spent a lot of time recently reassuring the volunteers about how much they will get out of this project and how beneficial it is to the community. I have no doubt that in a few weeks time they will be wondering what they were ever worried about.
On the last night of InCO, myself and Rahul put everyone into their counterpart pairs and told them where they would be living and working for the next 10 weeks. This was by far the hardest task I've had to do yet as it is such a crucial part of the programme. If you mess up the counterpart pairs you could really affect the way the volunteers work for the duration of our time here. So no pressure...
After InCO training it was finally the big day to leave for our communities. The bus, as always, was very late and completely unsuitable for the roads it was about to travel down. It was a long and emotional day dropping all of the volunteers off at their host homes, and even I felt a bit overwhelmed when I first came into my new room, completely bare concrete walls with two pieces of furniture. Fortunately my counterpart came in just as I was about to have a meltdown and we drank tea on the roof looking out to the Himalayas. You can see Annapurna from where I live, no biggie.
The first night wasn't the easiest. In Duipiple, where I live, there was no electricity, so we sat all evening in torchlight. Out of the corner of my eye I spotted my new eight legged roomie who was roughly the size of my hand. Neither of us wanted to remove it so he just lives in my room now. I half expected to wake up with spider on the face, but the odds were in my favour. He has since disappeared and I've emptied my entire suitcase to make sure the cheeky bastard isn't trying to get a free ride back to the UK. I can picture the headline now (in The Sun, of course) "British volunteer brings home killer spider from Nepal, mass panic ensues".
On our first full day, Rahul and I walked up to Sami B, the highest community at 800m. Because we are absolute warriors we managed to do it an hour and I'm almost certain I'm going to lose some toe nails as it turns out my trainers are a bit too small. It also turns out that almost everything I've packed is completely useless as I was expecting cold weather when in fact it's absolutely boiling. Somebody is going to be awfully smelly within a week or two. Or now.
After an entire day of walking around the hill, we returned home to dahl baat, my number 1 most hated thing about Nepal. Dahl baat is rice and lentils and is served like clockwork everyday at 9.30am and 7pm. There are no exceptions to dahl baat. Dahl baat is life. My 8 legged friend was still missing as was the power so we embarked on the first of many, many card games. I have no doubt that I will be an absolute boss at sh*t head by the time I get back to the UK.
We've spent the last couple of days in the office and visiting two of the other communities which included a 10k walk in flip flops no less. I currently have the most disgusting traveller feet and I can't see that changing in the near future. To get to Rambazaar we took a bus which turned out to be an experience in itself. On the way home a huge argument erupted between the guy that collects the money and a passenger. I obviously had no clue what they were shouting about but it ended with the money collector getting a huge pole from the back of the bus and going for the passenger with it. Fortunately my counterpart/bodyguard helped to diffuse the situation and everyone was ok. It escalated quickly, as Ron Burgundy might say.
The first week is coming to an end and I am off to a team meeting shortly to see how everyone is getting on. More updates will follow soon.
Lizzie x
The UKVs arrived on the evening of the 28th and it took them a record breaking 2 hours to collect their bags and get out of the airport, they are now at the top of the leaderboard for bag-collection time, not that there are any winners in this competition. Anyway.
The UKVs and ICVs (In Country Volunteers) then had three days of In Country Orientation (ICO- prepare yourself for many acronyms) which included language lessons, health and safety briefings, learning about the strategy of VSO Nepal, etc etc. I unfortunately had to miss one session as I finally got hit with food poisoning, although I did have a glorious 3 and a half weeks without getting it. Sadly we lost one of the UKVs during this time due to personal reasons, but it was all dealt with very well by VSO.
After the ICO we headed off to Besi Sehar which is the administrative capital of Lamjung, the district we are working in. With a lot of persuasion we managed to get a great deal on the best hotel in Besi Sehar, which was one final bit of luxury for the volunteers but has now ruined us for the next 10 weeks. In Besi Sehar the volunteers had 4 days of InCO (In Community Orientation) which was led by yours truly and my counterpart, Rahul. The InCO mainly consisted of learning how to facilitate, setting goals and preparing for life in the community. I really enjoyed leading the InCO and it has given me plenty of experience in training and facilitating sessions, which I 100% would not have been able to do this time last year. Thanks ICS.
There were lots of mixed emotions over these few training days as the reality of the programme kicked in for the volunteers. Having never seen the community before there were lots of questions about the toilets and electricity, as well as some doubts as to what we are going to do for the next few weeks. I've spent a lot of time recently reassuring the volunteers about how much they will get out of this project and how beneficial it is to the community. I have no doubt that in a few weeks time they will be wondering what they were ever worried about.
On the last night of InCO, myself and Rahul put everyone into their counterpart pairs and told them where they would be living and working for the next 10 weeks. This was by far the hardest task I've had to do yet as it is such a crucial part of the programme. If you mess up the counterpart pairs you could really affect the way the volunteers work for the duration of our time here. So no pressure...
After InCO training it was finally the big day to leave for our communities. The bus, as always, was very late and completely unsuitable for the roads it was about to travel down. It was a long and emotional day dropping all of the volunteers off at their host homes, and even I felt a bit overwhelmed when I first came into my new room, completely bare concrete walls with two pieces of furniture. Fortunately my counterpart came in just as I was about to have a meltdown and we drank tea on the roof looking out to the Himalayas. You can see Annapurna from where I live, no biggie.
The first night wasn't the easiest. In Duipiple, where I live, there was no electricity, so we sat all evening in torchlight. Out of the corner of my eye I spotted my new eight legged roomie who was roughly the size of my hand. Neither of us wanted to remove it so he just lives in my room now. I half expected to wake up with spider on the face, but the odds were in my favour. He has since disappeared and I've emptied my entire suitcase to make sure the cheeky bastard isn't trying to get a free ride back to the UK. I can picture the headline now (in The Sun, of course) "British volunteer brings home killer spider from Nepal, mass panic ensues".
On our first full day, Rahul and I walked up to Sami B, the highest community at 800m. Because we are absolute warriors we managed to do it an hour and I'm almost certain I'm going to lose some toe nails as it turns out my trainers are a bit too small. It also turns out that almost everything I've packed is completely useless as I was expecting cold weather when in fact it's absolutely boiling. Somebody is going to be awfully smelly within a week or two. Or now.
After an entire day of walking around the hill, we returned home to dahl baat, my number 1 most hated thing about Nepal. Dahl baat is rice and lentils and is served like clockwork everyday at 9.30am and 7pm. There are no exceptions to dahl baat. Dahl baat is life. My 8 legged friend was still missing as was the power so we embarked on the first of many, many card games. I have no doubt that I will be an absolute boss at sh*t head by the time I get back to the UK.
We've spent the last couple of days in the office and visiting two of the other communities which included a 10k walk in flip flops no less. I currently have the most disgusting traveller feet and I can't see that changing in the near future. To get to Rambazaar we took a bus which turned out to be an experience in itself. On the way home a huge argument erupted between the guy that collects the money and a passenger. I obviously had no clue what they were shouting about but it ended with the money collector getting a huge pole from the back of the bus and going for the passenger with it. Fortunately my counterpart/bodyguard helped to diffuse the situation and everyone was ok. It escalated quickly, as Ron Burgundy might say.
The first week is coming to an end and I am off to a team meeting shortly to see how everyone is getting on. More updates will follow soon.
Lizzie x
Monday, 9 March 2015
Independent Women (Part 1)
So glad I could use a Destiny's Child song for a blog title. SO GLAD.
Today is International Women's Day and it seems only fair to make this all about the sisterhood, am I right?! I've been incredibly busy during the last week as the volunteers have finally arrived and we have moved down to Besi Sehar (main town of Lamjung) and have started our training. Although that has been fantastic, it does however mean this isn't going to be as well researched as I would have liked. But here goes.
Now, I'm no expert in International Development or gender issues, but I sure have met and heard about a lot of inspiring women. For me, it doesn't take making global change to be inspiring, but to do something empowering, unexpected or to achieve something up against the odds. For whatever reason I'd never really thought of myself as much of as a campaigner for gender equality but that has all been slowly changing over the last couple of years. Having now worked in two countries where there is an extreme difference between life for men and for women, I have opened my eyes to the situation for women around the world.
Here's some fast facts from the UN for you about the global situation:
- 60% of chronically hungry people are women and girls
- women hold only 21.4% of the world's parliamentary seats
- globally, every 3 in 10 women report having experienced physical and/or sexual violence by an intimate partner
- approximately 800 women die every day from preventable diseases during pregnancy and childbirth
Over in Britain we are currently 26th in the world rankings for Global Gender Gap, falling from 18th, the lowest ranking we've had since 2008. It's certainly not the worst, but definitely not good, as we should be improving, not slipping further down the ranks. If you'd like to know more about the growing gender gap, this is a pretty good article.
That's a pretty bleak scenario, especially as all of the above is preventable.
Now as much as all of that is very depressing and absolutely must be changed, this day is all about celebrating women, so let's look at some positives eh?! I might have cheated and taken this list from somewhere else, but you can find the original here, or you can read on to find out about some amazing human beings. The list was originally compiled by VSO, so as one of their representatives I think it's only fair that I help shine a light on these amazing individuals. So here we are:
Ganga Adhikari: it seems only right that we start with a Nepali woman. In Nepal there is an extreme caste system, but despite this, Ganga married a man from a higher caste. His family refused to accept her and wouldn't even let her serve them food. Through the VSO partner Women's Empowerment Action Forum (WEAF), Ganga became and advocate for women's rights and worked to get girls into school. She gave women a voice and eventually acceptance from her in laws.
Hon. Esther Murugi Mathenge: a Kenyan MP and former minister. Esther was the only female politician in Kenya when she started. She says "Kenyan politics is still seen as a man's world and you are a trespasser. You learn to have a thick skin. I can assure you that becoming a minister was not easy. I was a lone ranger". Once Esther was elected she built 11 health facilities in her constituencies for women who had previously had to walk long distances to reach healthcare facilities and collect water.
Samira Hashi: a campaigner against Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) who was born in Somalia and grew up in London. She actively campaigns against this shocking practice at the same time as being a model and VSO ICS volunteer.
Rute Manave: Rutes husband died 15 years ago and she found out she had HIV. With the help of a VSO project supporting widows she was able to open a shop in Mozambique and can now support herself and her family.
Binti Ali Kiza: Binti was always told "women can't lead because they have periods...how can they lead when they are bleeding?". She then went on to create her own women's organisation Sauti Ya Kinamama (Voice of Women) who work to end the discrimination of women in Kenya.
Habiba Hashimu: Habiba is former sex worker from Tanzania. She was discriminated against and denied basic rights such as housing and medical care purely for being unmarried. Habiba then formed a support group that gives a voice to women born into poverty and forced into a challenging way of life. The group is registered with government authorities and free to advocate for their rights as commercial sex workers.
Well done to those ladies!
As I mentioned above, it doesn't take changing the world single handedly to be an inspiration. I myself am surrounded by women who inspire me everyday. I was brought into this world by an incredible woman also known as Mummy Sue, who is an actual angel and has given me so much support over the years and continues to do so (this day is all about women, but of course Padre you are equally as admired and loved). I can't imagine how hard it is to be a mother (especially to me!), so thank you madre. I've got great friends who are all out their doing their own thing because they can and they will. Friends who raise family whilst also building a career, showing the world that it doesn't have to be a choice of one or the other. I've met fantastic women overseas who battle daily gender inequality and help support those without a voice. I've worked with talented and ambitious women, all with hopes and dreams of their own. And of course I wouldn't be where I currently am (a Team Leader in Nepal just in case you didn't realise) without being supported by an amazing programme supervisor, but more importantly, friend, who has continued to inspire me to take on new, and to be honest terrifying, challenges. Speaking of my team, I have a very female heavy team full of exciting, enthusiastic and strong young women who are no doubt going to do incredibly well on this project.
So, on International Women's Day 2015, here's to you, inspiring women!
Lizzie x
p.s
You may have noticed that the title says part one. There will be a part two as I have been meaning to write more about the situation for women in Nepal. I think this deserves (and definitely needs) it's own post, so that will be coming once we have started our work on sexual and reproductive health work in community. So sit tight on that.
Today is International Women's Day and it seems only fair to make this all about the sisterhood, am I right?! I've been incredibly busy during the last week as the volunteers have finally arrived and we have moved down to Besi Sehar (main town of Lamjung) and have started our training. Although that has been fantastic, it does however mean this isn't going to be as well researched as I would have liked. But here goes.
Now, I'm no expert in International Development or gender issues, but I sure have met and heard about a lot of inspiring women. For me, it doesn't take making global change to be inspiring, but to do something empowering, unexpected or to achieve something up against the odds. For whatever reason I'd never really thought of myself as much of as a campaigner for gender equality but that has all been slowly changing over the last couple of years. Having now worked in two countries where there is an extreme difference between life for men and for women, I have opened my eyes to the situation for women around the world.
Here's some fast facts from the UN for you about the global situation:
- 60% of chronically hungry people are women and girls
- women hold only 21.4% of the world's parliamentary seats
- globally, every 3 in 10 women report having experienced physical and/or sexual violence by an intimate partner
- approximately 800 women die every day from preventable diseases during pregnancy and childbirth
Over in Britain we are currently 26th in the world rankings for Global Gender Gap, falling from 18th, the lowest ranking we've had since 2008. It's certainly not the worst, but definitely not good, as we should be improving, not slipping further down the ranks. If you'd like to know more about the growing gender gap, this is a pretty good article.
That's a pretty bleak scenario, especially as all of the above is preventable.
Now as much as all of that is very depressing and absolutely must be changed, this day is all about celebrating women, so let's look at some positives eh?! I might have cheated and taken this list from somewhere else, but you can find the original here, or you can read on to find out about some amazing human beings. The list was originally compiled by VSO, so as one of their representatives I think it's only fair that I help shine a light on these amazing individuals. So here we are:
Ganga Adhikari: it seems only right that we start with a Nepali woman. In Nepal there is an extreme caste system, but despite this, Ganga married a man from a higher caste. His family refused to accept her and wouldn't even let her serve them food. Through the VSO partner Women's Empowerment Action Forum (WEAF), Ganga became and advocate for women's rights and worked to get girls into school. She gave women a voice and eventually acceptance from her in laws.
Hon. Esther Murugi Mathenge: a Kenyan MP and former minister. Esther was the only female politician in Kenya when she started. She says "Kenyan politics is still seen as a man's world and you are a trespasser. You learn to have a thick skin. I can assure you that becoming a minister was not easy. I was a lone ranger". Once Esther was elected she built 11 health facilities in her constituencies for women who had previously had to walk long distances to reach healthcare facilities and collect water.
Samira Hashi: a campaigner against Female Genital Mutilation (FGM) who was born in Somalia and grew up in London. She actively campaigns against this shocking practice at the same time as being a model and VSO ICS volunteer.
Rute Manave: Rutes husband died 15 years ago and she found out she had HIV. With the help of a VSO project supporting widows she was able to open a shop in Mozambique and can now support herself and her family.
Binti Ali Kiza: Binti was always told "women can't lead because they have periods...how can they lead when they are bleeding?". She then went on to create her own women's organisation Sauti Ya Kinamama (Voice of Women) who work to end the discrimination of women in Kenya.
Habiba Hashimu: Habiba is former sex worker from Tanzania. She was discriminated against and denied basic rights such as housing and medical care purely for being unmarried. Habiba then formed a support group that gives a voice to women born into poverty and forced into a challenging way of life. The group is registered with government authorities and free to advocate for their rights as commercial sex workers.
Well done to those ladies!
As I mentioned above, it doesn't take changing the world single handedly to be an inspiration. I myself am surrounded by women who inspire me everyday. I was brought into this world by an incredible woman also known as Mummy Sue, who is an actual angel and has given me so much support over the years and continues to do so (this day is all about women, but of course Padre you are equally as admired and loved). I can't imagine how hard it is to be a mother (especially to me!), so thank you madre. I've got great friends who are all out their doing their own thing because they can and they will. Friends who raise family whilst also building a career, showing the world that it doesn't have to be a choice of one or the other. I've met fantastic women overseas who battle daily gender inequality and help support those without a voice. I've worked with talented and ambitious women, all with hopes and dreams of their own. And of course I wouldn't be where I currently am (a Team Leader in Nepal just in case you didn't realise) without being supported by an amazing programme supervisor, but more importantly, friend, who has continued to inspire me to take on new, and to be honest terrifying, challenges. Speaking of my team, I have a very female heavy team full of exciting, enthusiastic and strong young women who are no doubt going to do incredibly well on this project.
So, on International Women's Day 2015, here's to you, inspiring women!
Lizzie x
p.s
You may have noticed that the title says part one. There will be a part two as I have been meaning to write more about the situation for women in Nepal. I think this deserves (and definitely needs) it's own post, so that will be coming once we have started our work on sexual and reproductive health work in community. So sit tight on that.
Friday, 27 February 2015
Kama Sutra & Cremation.
I'm trying to write this as quickly as possible before it all leaves my brain, but it's pretty tricky as I've learnt so much in just a few hours.
Today was by far the best day I've had in Kathmandu. After yesterdays HUGE storm which basically turned all of Thamel into a mud bath, today was a gloriously hot sunny day and perfect for a bit of final sight seeing before the volunteers arrive tomorrow. I had only one place in mind, Pashupatinath.
Having had enough of being ripped off by taxi drivers I decided to walk the 5km to Pashupatinath, home to a beautiful temple but also the location of the Kathmandu Crematoria. That's right, I took a day to go and watch people be cremated, and my God it was incredible.
I managed to navigate my way there easy enough and it helps that almost all tourist attractions here are surrounded by shops and monkeys, so as soon as you start to see the sale of 'singing bowls' and Tibetan prayer flags, you know you're close. Having saved a fair amount of money by avoiding taxis, I decided to hire a guide, Sumit, and was really glad I did, without him I probably wouldn't have had a clue what was going on, plus, he was a bit of a babe. Not sorry.
Our first point of call was the Pashupatinath Temple, which non-Hindus are not allowed inside, but you can see a fair amount from the outside, up with the monkeys. Inside the grounds of the temple is a huge golden bull, which symbolises the vehicle of Shiva, and the gatekeeper for Shiva and Parvati. Inside the temple is a huge phallus statue, which is apparently a very common representation of Shiva.
From here we headed down to the water, where the real intrigue began. As we walked up to one of the many terraces looking down to the river, I was met with the first body. Well, to be fair, I couldn't see this one, it was quite far into the process. At this point we were to the left of a bridge crossing the river, the side where the 'normal' people are cremated. Over on the other side, for 5,000 rupees more, that's where the people of 'importance' are cremated. It's also the side where the bodies are washed but I'll get to that in a bit. So from where I was standing I could see about 10 little stone platforms at the side of the river. It was relatively early so there were only 2 that were in use. Sumit explained to me that once the bodies have been washed, they are brought over to a platform and put onto the wood. The family then walk around the body 3 times before the eldest male starts the fire. During this time the family do not cry or get upset, because Hindus believe that that stops the soul from leaving the body. The body is covered with straw and the fire is started in the mouth, because this is where the last breath left the body.
I should probably add in here that up until 1925, wives would jump into the fire with their dead husbands. If they weren't killed by the fire, then they were beaten to death by the family. And this was only made illegal less than 100 years ago. I've added it to my mental list of why it sucks to be a woman in Nepal, which I shall be blogging about soon.
According to Sumit it takes around 3 hours to cremate a man but 4 for a woman, because 'old Nepali women are very fat'. He did however add that I would only take 2, so that's nice to know. When the body has completely cremated, the ashes are thrown into the river, which much further down the line goes into the River Ganges.
After watching one of the Professional Burners (genuinely their actual title- you think your job sucks?) poke the fire for a little while we crossed over the bridge to watch the preparation of a body.
Now, I never intended to ever see a dead body, here or anywhere else, but it really was a very odd feeling. I didn't feel particular upset by this sight, having not known the person and they did seem very old, I just felt very strange, at the end of the day we are all made up of the same stuff. In Nepal they cremate the bodies very soon after death, so the man I saw had only been dead for no more than 24 hours tops. I think the most morbid part about this place is that they've decided to place Nepal's only government funded hospice right next to where the bodies are prepared. What's more, just round the corner is an old people's home, just so you can truly be reminded of what's coming to you. There's clearly nothing better than looking out of your window and thinking, "well, that's probably me next, someone get the fire ready".
So anyway, we stood on the riverbank and watched the preparation of the body. The man was lying on a special stone on the riverside and his clothes were removed before his family washed him. The feet are put into the river so that it can wash away the sins of the deceased, and the face is washed. The body is wrapped in white cloth and then a special orange cloth is put on top. I found out today that orange is the colour of sacrifice to both Hindus and Buddhists, which is why Buddhist monks wear orange robes. Once the body was covered they sprinkled red powder over it which symbolises purity and is used frequently in Hindu ceremonies, festivals and in daily life. From here they carry the body over to one of the platforms I mentioned above and start the cremating ceremony. I'm not going to lie, it was incredibly fascinating. My guide said it must be very different to what we do in the UK and I couldn't help but imagine what a nightmare it would be if we all started bathing our deceased in the Thames. I also started to think about how it would be to live in a country so focussed around tradition and religion, but I'll be writing about this later.
This is the only photo I'm going to upload because I don't think it's right to post photos of someone else's dead relative. On the right you can see 2 of the platforms in use.
We then headed up to the top of the nearby terraces where there are 11 temples, which represent the 11 wives of a guy who's name escapes me. Sumit decided to chime in that if he had a beautiful wife like me, then just 1 would be enough. What a charmer. We then walked a little higher and I got a great view over the whole of Pashupatinath. Sumit (or should we call him Chief Charmer) took this photo, and told me not to worry about falling over the side because he is superman and he would save me.
On the way back down to the river we saw some Sadhus, and I have seen a few of them out and about, but finally gave in to tourist temptation and got some photos (you have to give them money to do so). Sadhus are religious or holy men and there are 4 types: the naked ones, the hashish smoking ones, the entertainers who play music and the ones that I can't quite remember. Sadhus are considered dead to themselves and must remain celibate for their whole lives. To avoid temptation, the naked Sadhus cover themselves in the ashes of the dead in order to repulse women. If that doesn't work then I don't know what would. The hashish smoking sadhus are the only ones in Nepal who can smoke cannabis legally. So no to sex, but yes to drugs. Of course, here I am pictured with the naked, ash covered type.
After the sadhu excitement, we visited a small temple which is for the goddess Kali. Kali is usually pictured looking fierce as f***, because she is the goddess of destruction (in some forms. I've not got to grips completely with all of the gods, goddesses, incarnations etc). All around this small temple are carvings taken from the Kama Sutra, which have been put there to guard the main Pashupatinath temple from lightning. The logic behind this is that Kumari (remember her from before? Strange young child locked in a temple?) is the goddess of lightning, but because she is so young she doesn't know about sex so instead of destroying the main temple, she'll aim for this smaller one instead. All of this came from Sumit, so correct me if you know better.
Kali's temples are also a place for sacrifice, namely blood and alcohol. Many years ago it used to be that of the human sacrifice. They would trick a man into being sacrificed and then slit his throat in the shrine. They would then remove his little finger and then host a big dinner for men in the local area. The finger would be placed into the vegetables and whoever got the finger in their dinner would be the next sacrifice. These days they just go for animal sacrifices, which are one of each of the following: cow, sheep, duck, goat and chicken. Only male animals are sacrificed, because the females are needed for reproduction. According to Sumit, there is a really fair way of telling if an animal wants to be sacrificed...they simply chuck some water on it's head and if it shakes its head then it's ready. If it doesn't shake its head then they simply keep throwing water onto its head. Really fair that, really fair.
The final point of call was the old peoples home, which houses over 200 elderly Nepalis. Oh my, elderly Nepalis are incredibly sweet! They are so tiny and so wrinkly I just wanted to hug all of them. Sumit is clearly friends with the whole geriatric community and one lady told us that because he is Nepali and I am white then we would make a great couple. Well that Russian fortune teller did say I would marry a South Asian man, so maybe he wasn't so wrong after all.
At the end of the tour I politely declined the offer to go to tea and spent some more time back at the river watching the cremations. It seems like a very strange way to spend such a beautiful day but I can honestly say it's the most fascinating thing I've ever seen. There aren't really enough words.
Not too far from Pashupatinath is Boudhanath, home to Boudha Stupa, Nepal's largest Buddhist Stupa. Funnily enough I didn't fancy lunch at Pashupati and decided to go and bask in the Sun at the Stupa. I don't know too much about the stupa as there wasn't a guide or much information. What I can share with you however, is lots and lots of photos.
This is what happens when you ask someone who can't speak English to take your photo.
It was still lovely and sunny in the afternoon so I walked back to Thamel and had the longest, most thorough shower I've had in a long while. Now my hair smells much more like Herbal Essences and much less like the burning of dead bodies.
Lizzie x
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